The Winter Passage: 01/16/19

I left Hotel Abadia at 07:50 and walked through the rest of Burgos. Right then, I knew this day was going to be different. It was the coldest it had been since I'd been in Europe. The sidewalks were slick with ice. I made my way out of town in the fog. Everything was frosted over. I made it to Tradajos and Rabe de la Calzada. I saw one backpacker coming up behind me in Tradajos, but then he disappeared, probably into a coffee shop. From then on, it was just me and the frozen windy fields. I did see a pilgrim camping out in a rest area on the way to Hornillos del Camino. It looked like his tent was so wet he could not get it packed. I waved from a distance and walked on.

I was hoping to get something to eat in Hornillos del Camino when I got there at noon, but everything in town was closed. It was like a ghost town. I pushed across the meseta to Hontanas. Once again, everything was closed. I did see three Spanish pilgrims, a dad and his two sons, in Hontanas waiting for an albergue to open. It must have never opened because they ended up following me to Castrojeriz. The fog finally lifted around 15:00 and the frost melted.

Walking into Castrojeriz, you can see the castle above the town on the hill. I ended my forty kilometer day about 17:40 at the municipal albergue. It was €5 for a bed. Most of the albergues, hotels, and restaurants in Castrojeriz were closed. I ate at the only open bar: La Taberna. I had spaghetti to start, pork loin as the entree, and ice cream for desert. A beer and bread were also included for €11. It was not the best value, but I was glad to get a hot meal after a long day of walking.

I have now caught up to a new group of backpackers, none whom I've seen before: six Spanish, three Argentine, and one German.