Saturday, January 12, 2019

Day 10: Navarrete to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

I left the hotel at 08:10. On the way out of Navarrete. I caught up to the lone backpacker whom I'd seen the day before. The Korean girl said there were only two other people at the albergue in Navarrete. I passed her up as she could not keep up with me. Today was the first day where it rained. I finally had to used my rain jacket and pack cover. I walked by Ventosa, then was walking through vineyards for as far as the eye could see. Then it was a descent into Najera.

I made it to Najera at noon. It was a good-sized town. I crossed the clear Najerilla River and headed toward the red cliffs that border the town. There was the Monastery of Santa Maria la Real. I paid €4 to enter. The church is built into the side of the cliff with access to a cave. In the cave is a statue of Mary that was found there in 1044. I left at 13:00, knowing I still had slot of walking to do.

I walked out the backside of Najera through the red clay and over the hump. Then, it was miles of vineyards until I got to the town of Azofra, which seemed kind of dead; I saw few cars and few people. The vineyards eventually turned into hayfields. It was a long gradual ascent into Ciruena. First I passed a golf driving range, which was busy. The rest of Ciruena was like a ghost town. There were fairly new apartment buildings, of which less than half seemed to be occupied. Some of the apartment buildings seemed to be completely vacant.

I trudged on toward Santo Domingo de la Calzada. I walked past alot of farm equipment on my way into town, giving me the impression this was an agricultural hub. I finally reached the Confradia del Santo Albergue, the only albergue open, at 07:00 after it was dark. I should have not stopped off in Najera earlier in the day. The albergue was packed with maybe sixteen people, not including myself, and I did not recognize anyone. I guessed that I caught up to the group that had left the day before my original group. One skinny Korean girl helped me find an open bed and asked me what country I was from and where I had walked from.

I went out looking for dinner just before 20:00. I saw all the local people headed into the cathedral for mass, so I went inside too. By the time I got done with mass, there was only a little over an hour to get food before the albergue doors were locked at 22:00. Also, all of the nearby restaurants were packed after mass. I just settled for getting some food out of the vending machine: a microwaveable hot dog, licorice, and chocolate milk.

Ventosa.

Najera.

The statue in the cave.

Grapes that were not harvested last season.

Hay stacks.

Ciruena.

Trying to walk down to Santo Domingo de la Calzada just before dark.