I left the municipal albergue just before 07:00 and started walking out of St. Jean Pied de Port. I was fine until I got to the edge of town, and there were no more lights. I had to stop and wait until about 08:00 for daylight to start coming over the horizon before I could continue. I learned my lesson and would not leave my lodging until 08:00 going forward.
The first stretch was farmland. I saw pigs being loaded onto a truck at one farm. Every Basque house was painted white with red windows. To get to Arneguy, one must pass through a shopping center at the Spain border. I stopped at the gas station there to buy more water.
I walked though Arneguy and crossed back into France for awhile. Then, I was in Spain for good when crossing the stream in Valcarlos. The trail started going up and up the ten kilometers before Ibaneta Pass. It was brutal on my legs, and I had to stop constantly to recharge going uphill. It was getting very cold at the higher elevation, and I wondered if I would be able to make it to Roncesvalles before dark. I finally got to Ibaneta Pass, walking over ice for a stretch, and then it was a quick 1.5 kilometer downhill descent.
I made it into Roncesvalles at 15:45 and paid €8 for a bunkbed at the albergue. I got a top bunk, which is not as good as a bottom bunk. I showered and then went to Saturday night mass at the church. Me and two French guys were the only pilgrims who went and were called up at the end of mass for a pilgrims blessing.
I then ate at Casa Sabina, the only restaurant currently open in Roncesvalles. I ate the roasted pork leg with applesauce. There was more leg bone than meat on the plate. The priest who celebrated mass came in and started drinking at the bar.
