Thursday, January 10, 2019

Day 8: Estella to Viana

I left Estella at 07:45 and walked along the lit streets of Estella and Ayegui. I came to the Irache Winery as the sun was coming up. They have a wine fountain along the trail for pilgrims, so I tried some of their wine. It was not bad, definately better than the tinto I had on Day 6. About thirty minutes later, an English guy named Mark caught up with me. We ended up walking together and talking. It made the miles pass quicker. He decided to quit his job in his mid-forties in 2012, then travel with the money he got from selling his house. He had walked every single Camino route to Santiago, and some of the routes multiple times. Despite being a vagabond for six years, he had spent all of the time in Spain with the exception of a single trip to Peru. We walked up to Azqueta and Villamayor de Monjardin. Mark wanted a coffee, but all of the cafes were still closed.

We finally walked into Los Arcos before 13:00. We stopped to get lunch at a bar called Cerveceria Buen Camino. I had an orange juice and an overpriced plate of spaghetti. While eating lunch, the Italian guy, Alesandro, came in to get coffee. He seemed surprised I was there and asked me what time I left Estella.

I continued on walking with Mark until we got to Sansol and Torres del Rio, which are two towns on hills, but on the opposite sides of a stream. Torres del Rio had the only open albergue for miles. Mark called it a day in Torres del Rio as he had walked from Pamplona to Estella the previous day. I swapped out my socks and took a water break at a picnic table in town. I then walked on by myself through dry, hilly terrain to Viana. During this stretch, I started seeing more vineyards and olive groves.

I got to Viana just as the sun was setting, and it was getting cold. I had to take a small detour as one of the streets was being recemented. I arrived at the municipal hostal, but there was no attendant working there. Apparently the attendant ends the day at 18:00. There was a phone number I could call, but I decided to just treat myself to a hotel after a long day. I checked in to the Palacio de Pujabas, showered, washed my socks, and passed out on the bed. By the time I woke up, it was too late to get dinner. I just went back to sleep.

The wine fountain. The winery gives away 100 liters each day.

There is nothing untouched by graffiti in Spain.

There is a small castle on the hill overlooking Villamsjor de Monjardin.

Much of the day's hike looked like this.

The entrance to Los Arcos.

Los Arcos and its massive church.

Looking back at Sansol and Torres del Rio, which is mostly hidden by the barn.

Watching a tractor plow a dry field. 

I finally reach Viana.